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Our
weather was a perfect summer afternoon, saving the fact we weren't granted a
chance to loft the sails. In true Sea of Cortez fashion, known to those who have
sailed here, we knew we were going the right direction as the light breeze was
dead on the nose.
 Balandra
is a good summer anchorage, protected from the less aggressive late summer
Coromuel winds. When anchoring in the bahia it is important to beware the reef
which extends 250 yards north from the southern side of the cove. On the
afternoon we anchored the light breeze left a glassy patch over the
semi-submerged rocks, making them easy to avoid. That evening we shared the
large anchorage with just one other vessel. A
calm, starry night was followed by a bright clear dawn. Balandra is one of the
favorite un-commercialized beaches in the
 La
Paz Area. Several new palapas dot the beach from the parking lot to the famous
Diamond Rock of La Paz. That morning we enjoyed the 80+ degree water and
recharged out batteries as the sun recharged those on board. When
swimming in Balandra you have to be wary of Jelly Fish. The bahia is somewhat
isolated from the current flow in the Lorenzo Channel. The recent passage of
hurricane Ignacio had washed nutrients from the hillsides into the sea. A
fertile basin for life, I was most bothered by the invisible "String of
Pearls." On an excursion around the point to Tecolote Beach there was a
noticeable clarity to the water. Edgar told me local lore says, clear water no
stings, cloudy water more stings. A logic which stands to reason.  That
afternoon a decent breeze on a good point of sail encouraged us to haul anchor
and set for La Partida. The course from Balandra to Partida takes you along the
southern shore of Isla
Espiritu Santo. I find this southwestern edge of the
island to be my favorite. Steep rock walls, unusual stone formations and cactus
that come right to the edge of a turquoise anchorage make this area a favorite
of many sailors of the Sea.
 There
are several coves as you pass up the island that give the allure of beautiful
anchorages for the night, but it's a siren's song.
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Only the main anchorage in Partida offers regular protection from the nightly Coromuel Winds.
I have been
enticed during the day into the narrow anchorage between Partida and Cardonal
on a stem and stern hook. After nightfall the wind shift brought 25+kts on the
nose and I am sure I achieved zero G's in the v-berth.
 Edgar
guided us to an anchorage in protection of the northeast end of the cove. When
entering Partida check your local guides, there are rocks that extend from the
north side of the entrance that have ruined a few excursions. That night we
shared the anchorage with two other power vessels preparing to fish the next
day. Sunset is obscured by the high walls of this former volcanic crater but
the pre-sunset light illuminates the rock rims which rise a couple of hundred
feet overhead.
That
night, under
a map of stars, John shared one of his proudest moments. In 1968 John had
been invited to receive the Key to the City from his home town in New
Jersey. On the suggestion of his former employer in the sanitation business,
on the day of the ceremony he was met at the entrance of his hotel by a sparkling
new garbage truck and fresh orange jump suit. His mother was escorted to the
cab on red carpet and, donning the jumpsuit, John rode the bumper to city
hall. John had made the passage in less than 15 years. It is this innate
human ability to rise up to achieve your dreams that John is trying
inspiring though his foundations efforts.
Sunday
dawned, and the need to return to reality set in. We motored back to La Paz
as juvenile mantas leapt and performed barrel rolls before returning to the
glassy sea. The return to La Paz takes about 4 and a half hours. We spent
the early afternoon disembarking and beginning the tasks of standing the
vessel down. Within days John had returned to Los Angeles and I to my
computer. The difference now being able to take a brief mental vacation,
just by closing our eyes and returning to Halley's Comet in Bahia de La Paz.
Full
sails... Tomas
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Insider's Notebook: Hold the Beef
& Other Road Communications
When you are driving Baja you have to be aware of the language of passing car communication.
NEW!
Mexican driver will flash their lights to indicate a speed trap ahead! With
the increasing use of radar on Hwy 1 watch for this signal.
Left
turn signal alone: If you are on a straight away and have been indicating you want to pass this means the lane is clear. However, if you have been riding this guys bumper it may mean "Go ahead and pass gringo and we'll be scraping you off the front of a Corona truck."
Left turn signal followed by brake lights: Decelerating for a left hand turn. DO NOT PASS on either side! If the oncoming lane has traffic, the indicating drive MAY pull to the right to allow you to pass in travel lanes until traffic is clear.
A hand signal of "Hook
'em Horns": (Thumb and pinky extended, hand rotated at the wrist for those of you who have never watched a Univ. of Texas football game) Pay attention to these signals, it usually means cattle in the road ahead. It is usually specific to cattle but has been known to indicate goats. This of course is non-applicable if both your car and the approaching car have surfboard racks. Then it simply means "Hang loose, Buuud
Eeee!"
Flash of headlights or 4 way flashers: Also indicate cattle in the road or some other obstruction such as rock slides or road work
Buckets of burning rags, oil or tar: Batteries are expensive here and would last about one night unattended. These indicate construction or check point ahead.
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