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Day Four: During breakfast, feeding dolphins
in the anchorage joined us. Just outside, a whale spouted. Four for four in
the whale department and I think the family thinks this is normal.
It was time to up anchor and head north. We did not have all
that far to go so just before we got to Agua Verde we decided to try for
Honeymoon Cove on Isla Danzante. It was full with a beautiful black schooner
named “Raven”. The other spots there were too deep for us to anchor. I
decided our only shot was to go into Cocktail Cove. We got there and
anchored near friends on “Debutant” for the night.
One thing about Puerto Escondido is that you can count on
the sunsets and sunrises being some of the most beautiful in Baja.
Day Five: We were once up again early. We took a short tour
around Puerto Escondido, out the entrance and around the north end of Isla
Danzante. We had not a whisper of wind so we motored towards Agua Verde. At
approximately two-thirds of the way there we were surrounded by a huge pod
of dolphins. Camera stations were in order as they stayed with us for almost
forty-five minutes.
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It got within a boat length and dove to reappear on the other side. The
water was clear enough to watch it the whole way. We stayed still for the
next fifteen minutes or so waiting for them to clear before we headed south
again.
Just like clockwork as we cleared the blues, another pod of
dolphins took it upon themselves to travel and play with us. We headed back
to Isla San Francisco with the daylight left to us.
Day Seven: We were off to Amortajada Bay at
Isla San Jose to see the Cardon Cactus forest and the lagoon there. We took
the dinghy up the river leading to the lagoon where we spent a little time
in the cactus forest.
We proceeded to Isla Coyote where we anchored for lunch.
This place is not to be missed. It is the second-most populated island in
the Sea of Cortez. There are several families on the large rock and it is
very picturesque. It is well worth going shore and they welcome visitors.
Rumor has it that there lobsters available there as well. We cleared on the
west side with a nice fifteen-knot breeze. It kept building to the point
that I eventually reefed and rolled the jib in a little. We anchored in
Ensenada Grande for the night. At this point, Murphy’s Law set in and the
swell from the west made it a very bumpy night.
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 We arrived in
Agua Verde and anchored on the north side. We did get the
“cruisers-inspecting-the charter-boat-anchoring drill”. There was room but
not a lot. After the anchor was down, we were invited to a beach potluck
that night at the Agua Verde Yacht Club, (actually an overhang from one of
the fishing sheds). The family had time to go into the village first and
took the dinghy to explore. I knew some of the other boats there and the
family had a great time meeting people.
The cruisers
were great and asked them about Switzerland and their trip. We all returned
to the boat well after dark and had a great night’s rest.
Day Six:
My original plan was a straight run to San Evaristo, straight through the
San Jose Channel. I questioned whether another look at the blue whales was
in order and they agreed. We made a straight course through Isla San Diego
and Isla Santa Cruz.
On the way,
what should appear but a sei whale (we had to look it up in our book) on our
starboard side. At almost the same spot as before, we saw more blues. Not as
many as before because it was later in the day. There were still many of
them doing their circle drill and we constantly heard them blow. I had
turned off the engine and after about fifteen minutes, off to our port
surfaced the largest thing I have ever seen! It was headed straight for us
and was easily double the size of our forty-foot boat. No one said a word
but got busy taking pictures.
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Day
Eight: We visited Isla Islotes again for more pictures and then
anchored at El Embudo for lunch. Since that means “The Funnel”, it’s only
good for one or two boats and in daytime only. A lazy motor-sail down
through the anchorages on Partida and
Espiritu Santo finally took us to
Lobos Cove for the night. And by the way, we saw another whale in the
distance.
Last
Day: Back to the base by ten AM. This was by far my most amazing
trip for seeing sea life. Not only were the customers great people, but also
they were extremely lucky to have traveled from Switzerland and be able to
see the number of whales, dolphins, sea lions and rays that they did. They
went home very happy and I am still shaking my head in amazement.
After having
done this for two years, this trip takes the prize. I think my wife is a
little envious but there will be another day when you’re cruising. That is
the beauty of it.
Hasta Luego, Amigos.
Mike
Rickman
S/V Amazing Grace
(Prout 37 Eureka, CA) in La Paz, BCS, Mexico
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For further information on Moorings charters in the
Sea of Cortez visit their website at:
www.moorings.com
or call 800-535-7289
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