Fishing Charters in La Paz

Sport fishing in La Paz isn’t new business and it isn’t a small business either. It seems that La Paz sport fishing has been the secret of the serious sportsman for years, long before Cabo existed. With La Paz seeking it’s “touristic identity” open panga fishing is reaching new levels in popularity.

There are two major fishing areas access from La Paz; Isla Espiritu Santos and Isla Cerralvo. Espiritu Santo is about 23 miles from the Ensenada La Paz. (downtown) and charters usually fish the north side of the island which is slightly further. The other location is about 45 minutes away by car a few miles past Los Planes on a good two lane paved road. From either Punta Arenas or Bahia Muertos (now changed to Bay of Dreams by the development company) open pangas access the Cerralvo Channel and Cerralvo Island.

What makes the Cerralvo Islands unique is the submarine geography. In three directions away from the islands seamounts come within 30 feet of the surface. These areas are fed with nutrient rich water from the sea floor by the strong tidal current of the Sea of Cortez. These nutrients benefit the entire food chain and alone would make for great fishing in the area.
 

 bulkhead/benches divide the panga, forward of the first serves as a bait tank. Ricardo and I sat aft of that, in two pedestal fishing chairs. Our panga was equipped with a bimini for when the sun gets too hot later in the season. Our skipper, Juan steers from the motor while he scanned the horizon for fish signs.

Juan was a professional in every aspect of his job. Although he spoke no English to us we had no problem communicating the basic needs of fishing. Ricardo and he conversed in their native tongue and for the most part I was able to follow along. Juan had grown up fishing these waters, a fourth generation fisherman, he is a native to Los Planes.

But Cerralvo has another thing going for it, the manner in which the Pacific currents swirl into the Sea of Cortez.  As the sea surface temperature images shows, cooler, food rich Pacific waters meet the warm, fish friendly waters of the Sea just south of the Island. The fish get fresh food delivered to them while they bask in warm water – it’s Club Med for game fish!

The Sea offers up something for the angler most of the year. Sierra and Yellow Tail come on first, in mid to late winter. (if you can call what we have that time of year ‘winter’) Rooster fish and Tuna come on shortly after, while summer brings the Dorado, Sail Fish, Wahoo and Marlin. Some of the most popular catches, Tuna, Wahoo and Dorado are available until late fall –early winter. Red Snapper and Pargo are also plentiful in the area.

So, recently it was brought to my attention that I had never fished the Cerralvo Islands – one of the main attractions to the region I call home. My friend, Ricardo Curiel of Club El Moro in La Paz offered to take me in one of their chartered open pangas for a day of real sport fishing in the Sea of Cortez.

Now, being an avid sailor, I fish for my supper while in route to my next anchorage. I’ve hauled drag lines in five oceans, fished the lakes and streams of New England as a kid, but I’m not what you’d call an avid fisherman. I was really looking forward to the experience, it would be something new to have someone else drive the boat!

The day started early, as the fish wait for no man. Before sunrise Ricardo and I met on the steps of Club El Moro and climbed into the 12 passenger van. During the summer months the panga fleet work from the beaches of the north facing Las Arenas, as the prevailing winds are from the south. When the weather shift from the north, the fleet moves around the point, to the protection of Bahia Muertos. Both destinations are about 45 minutes by two lane paved road with a short dirt stretch at the end of either trip. The drive gives you time to chat and sweep the cobwebs from your senses.

As we rounded onto the beach of Punta Arenas it was already abuzz with activity. Dozens of pangas and the accompanying fishermen were preparing for a day of fishing. The sun rose over the Sea through a light morning haze, silhouetting the lighthouse tower on the point. The mornings start off cool but can warm up quickly in mid June. We quickly loaded our cooler into the panga and our captain, Juan powered up his Toyota pickup and pushed our panga down the beach into the water. Juan and his brother, Our 22’ super pangas was powered by a sleek 4 stroke Honda outboard. As we raced around the point and toward the fishing grounds it was easy to talk over the motor. Being a sailor, that’s important to me.

The Sea of Cortez was only disturbed by a few wind waves as we made our way across the Cerralvo Channel to where the fish were biting. A cluster of pangas on the horizon made me believe the fleet had already found where the fish were biting today. I wasn’t corrected in my observation, but Ricardo cautioned me to wait and see. As we drew nearer it was obvious, this was the bait store.

It was hard to tell who was selling and who was trying to catch there own bate at first. Three of four boats were actively throwing nets for small bate fish or hauling hand lines for mackerel. Many of the boats were local professional fishermen while others had pleasure anglers like myself. One group of fly fishermen cast frantically while waiting for bait, as if they would break out in spots without a line in the water. Within minutes we had our bait and were off to the fishing grounds.

These pangas are kind of unique to the area. Fiberglass pangas were introduced to the area about 30 years ago by a factory in La Paz. More than 20 feet long, the boats are relatively narrow abeam. The long slim design makes them fast and lets them cut through the short period waves of the Sea of Cortez. Fiberglass
 

He didn’t just sit back and drive the boat either. He worked hard all day, standing in the panga and scanning the horizon for fish signs, checking the lines, tugging them to see if the bait was intact. When we fished the rocks for Pargo and Snapper he cast his nets and garnered a bow full of sardinas for bait. You should remember to tip a good skipper.

For those of you who love to fish you know I can’t give literary justice to the thrill when the reel sings. When the fish on the line breaks the water and flies as you do battle. Fishing here is for the sportsman who is there to fish. When the cry goes up, “Fish on” time reverts to that privative struggle. There is nothing but you, the ocean and the fish. I’ve always found these things are best experienced best in person. It’s like taking a picture of a beautiful mountain, it ends up a little flat in the reproduction.

The fleet returned to the beach around 2PM. Fish tales and catches of the day were compared on the beach. With four days of cold northers, unusual for this late in June, the catch was leaner than a few days before, but the catch still made for a good day. I spoke to several groups of charter anglers on the beach and all were happy with the day. In one boat or another was a fine example of each species the ocean offered from Snapper to Marlin.

There are a few things to remember when you go open panga fishing. Our charter included gear but you can bring your own. Sun protection is a must. Some of the best La Paz fishing occurs when our Baja sun is it’s most brutal. Long sleeves and a hat are a good idea. Be sure you have plenty to drink and include water in your supplies. Open pangas have no head (bathroom) facilities - take care of things before boarding or be prepared to get creative ‘over the side’ 

I would like to thank my host Ricardo and captain Juan for an outstanding Baja adventure. If you would like to experience the thrill of open panga sport fishing in the Sea of Cortez Club El Moro offers stay and fish packages at very reasonable rates. Take the opportunity to enjoy one of the great adventures in La Paz has – open panga sport fishing!

Additional Resources

Map of La Paz
Map of Baja
Map of La Paz Beaches
La Paz Real Estate
Resorts in La Paz