Baja's Oldest Bar and the Verified Originator of the Margarita
Ever been to Hussongs in Ensenada? Most Baja Aficionados
have—at least once in our lives. It’s a rite of passage for Southern
Californians who turn 18 and don’t want to wait another three years before
bellying up to a bar. But Hussongs isn’t just a bar. It’s a landmark ... a
legend ... a one-of-a-kind, not-to-be-missed experience. It has this certain
mystique. It’s famous. People all over the world know about it. Its
popularity has never waned in all these years. It’s also the place where the
Margarita was invented—back in October, 1941 by bartender Don Carlos Orozco.
He concocted the perfect mixture of equal parts tequila, Damiana (Controy is
used now) and lime, served over ice in a salt-rimmed glass for Margarita
Henkel, daughter of the German Ambassador to Mexico. Not too many people
know that, but it’s the truth. Honest.
Hussongs hasn’t changed much in 108 years. Current owner, Ricardo Hussong,
grandson of founder Juan, told me that the only changes he’s made to the
building since taking it over in 1979 were to replace the
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About Author Ann Hazard:
Ann Hazard’s newest book, Agave
Sunsets, brings Baja California and its inhabitants—both Mexican and
expatriate—to life. In her spirited, laid-back and often hilarious stories, she
erases the barriers between cultures and accurately depicts our “neighbors to
the south” as the down-to-earth, generous folks that they are. This book is
guaranteed to open your eyes, change your perspective … and implant in you un corazón Mexicano.
Agave Sunsets is a collection of 50 treasured Baja tales (each with a color
photo) spanning four generations. It all began back in the 1890s with Ann’s
grandfather, Pappy Hazard—a notorious and lucky poker player who traveled Baja
with Erle Stanley Gardner—creator of Perry Mason. For over 100 years, the Hazard
family has adventured in Baja and the stories are recounted in “Boys ‘n Beer in
Baja,” and “Fishing for Those Little Bastards,” among others.
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sheet metal
ceiling and to add a new ice maker! He’s maintained the family tradition of
serving consistently great drinks, using top quality liquor and charging
reasonable prices. It’s laid back, friendly, casual and always tons of fun.
The dark green interior, wooden floors covered in sawdust and funky art on
the wall never change. Mariachis rotate in and out, just like they always
have. A guy with a Polaroid cruises by, offering souvenir photos. Another
comes in with an electrical box and two cylinders, offering to shock you for
a fee. Whenever a song finishes, there’s a round of hooting, hollering and
cheering..
Is it rowdy? In a comfortable, easy-going way that doesn’t take itself too
seriously. It was way wilder in the ‘70s. Ricardo believes things have
calmed down because, as he says (and he’s about my age), “We’re all growing
up. The crowd is mellower now. The younger tourists go to Papas & Beer.
It used to be that we had about 85% Americans here. Now most of our
customers are locals. Business people come in here for a drink before lunch.
Men in their 20s and 30s meet their girlfriends and wives here on Friday
nights. It’s steady.” I know. I’ve seen it. And on weekends the locals are
always happy to share their tables with visiting Americans. At Hussongs,
everyone is your friend.
So how did it all start, anyway? Is the name Hussongs really German? And, if
so, how did a German end up owning the most popular bar in all of Baja?
Well, here’s the scoop ...
Johann Hussong, the cantina’s founder, was born in Germany in 1863. When he
was 23, he emigrated to New York, where he became John. After a year, he
headed west to California. In 1889 the discovery of gold south of the border
lured him to Ensenada. Back then, Ensenada was barely a blip on the radar
screen. There were 1,337 people, three hotels, one bar, a pier, a few shops,
a flour mill, a school, a stable and a wine cellar. There was a new
telegraph and phone line between San Diego and Ensenada and a steamship line
that operated between the two cities. The road between the two was pretty
much impassible.
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John hunted quail, geese and other wild fowl which he sold to local
restaurants. In 1890 he bought a barbershop and began running a carriage
with six horses between Ensenada and the gold rush camp, El Alamo, about 60
miles to the southeast on a very bad road. His carriage flipped one day that
June, and he broke his leg. He was brought to J.J. Meiggs’ cantina in
Ensenada to recuperate. A few days later Meiggs attacked his wife with an
axe. He was arrested and she took off for California. The day he got out of
jail, Meiggs sold the bar to John Hussong and left to search for his wife.
Neither was ever heard of again.
In those days, the cantina was located where Papas & Beer is
now. However, the next door neighbors complained constantly about the noise, so
John—who had by then become Juan—moved his bar across the street, where it’s
been ever since. In April, 1892 Hussongs Cantina was established.
Hussongs has always been a place that piques the imagination and whose
memory lingers in the mind. My dad told me about his first visit there. It
was 1931. He was nine. His dad and some fishing buddies were inside drinking
and told him to wait
outside. He couldn’t handle the suspense. He had to see what was behind
those green doors, so he sneaked in, climbed up onto an empty barstool and
ordered himself a Coke. Ricardo told me recently that kids were able to come
in and hang with their parents until the early ‘60s, when the laws changed.
That was about the time of my first almost-visit to Hussongs. Like my dad, I
was told to wait outside, but I was with my mom and sister so we went next
door for tacos. When we finished, we stood out front for a few minutes
waiting. I remember the music, the laughter. I remember wanting so badly to
be old enough to go inside and see for myself just what all the excitement
was about.
I had to wait another ten years ... but I’ve been coming back ever since. We
always stop in on our way up or down the peninsula after grabbing a couple
of tacos next door.
AUTHOR’S NOTE: I got my information from a document of the Ensenada
Historical Society. I also received an email from the granddaughter of Don
Carlos Orozco who thanked me for printing the true story. A friend of mine
saw a very old Margarita Hinkle on TV in 2002 recounting the story. So, even
though a ridiculous number of bartenders have credited themselves with
inventing the Margarita, this is the real deal.
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