Cooking on the Early Ranchos

Scary Squid Stories

Two of the most important pieces of earthen cookware in the early rancho cocinas of Alta and Baja California were the olla and the cazuela.  The olla, deeper than the cazuela, was designed specifically for stews and frijoles. The cazuela, shaped more like a skillet with “ears”, was used for sautéing or making chili sauces or mole. A day did not go by without a stew, a batch of frijoles or a pungent sauce simmering on the top of mesquite fueled fires in these handmade earthenware pots. In the old days if  unexpected visitors dropped by for the midday meal a cook could expand the volume of a simmering stew on a moments notice by adding a scrap of meat, fresh vegetables and other tasty ingredients to her olla..

In the mountain communities of the Cape Region there was always at least one family that made these simple, unadorned earthenware pots for themselves and their neighbors. Ollas and cazuelas were often traded for other items such as seeds, food, animals, etc. The skill of making and firing these traditional clay pots was  often passed down from mother to daughter. Today, the son of well-known potter, Doña Vicente, who lived for many years in a mountain community on the pacific side south of Pescadero, is now the master potter in the family. His earthenware ollas and cazuelas are on sale in several Todos Santos shops.     

Recently I came across a recipe called, Frijoles de la Olla in a book titled, “California Rancho

Cooking “ by Jacqueline Higuera McMahan. This recipe came down through many generations of her family who lived in Mexico and later settled in Alta California during the mission period. Señora Higuera reports that rancho cooks preferred the flavor of small dried pink beans to the starchier pintos. She also reveals that, “Beans were never soaked. It was believed that soaking sapped the flavor.” Instead, the beans were placed in an olla with chopped onions, garlic, a ham hock (or bone) and enough water to cover the beans. They were first simmered for one hour until they began to soften. Hot water was adding as needed as the mixture cooked for an additional 1 to 2 hours. The heat was then turned off and the beans “rested” in the olla for another hour while the cook completed the final stage of the process.  First she heated a bit of lard in a cazuela over medium heat. She added two or more cups of hot beans to the lard along with a cup or so of bean liquid and salt and pepper. They were then mashed with a wooden bean masher. Bean liquid was added from time to time to create a creamy thickness. The thickened beans were then stirred into the olla with the other cooked beans and blended over medium heat, stirring frequently. The olla was brought to the table for serving.

Although today modern cookware has replaced the hand fashioned earthenware pots on most of Baja’s ranchos, there is no substitute for the earthy smoky flavor that a seasoned olla gives a simmered stew or frijoles. We purchased our first olla from Doña Vicente’s family several years ago. It has become a fixture in our kitchen, especially when we want to make a traditional pot of delicious frijoles.      JH
 

Biologists believe that there are 300 species of squid throughout the world. The Humboldt Squid, first described by biologists in the mid-1800s, is the largest squid in the Americas. Among the peculiarities of the species is its tremendous central nervous system, giving it control over its 10 muscular tentacles and the ability to change colors or produce dazzling patterns on its skin.

The Humboldt Squid is most common off the coast of South America where they can grow up to 16 feet and weigh several hundred pounds. In Baja most of the Humboldts we catch weight about 10 to 30 pounds. Even at that size they give you a surprising fight on rod and reel, especially if they decide to blast you in the face with a shower of black ink or cut loose with a body-full of water that can shoot 20 feet in the air.

Humboldt Squid are powerful, vicious, meat-eating predators capable of swimming more than 20 mph. They are equipped with over 1,000 suckers, each containing about 20 gripping teeth.  A powerful “beak” the size of a tangerine snaps and cuts anything pulled within its reach.

Humboldt Squid are aggressive feeders that have attacked divers when confronted and will even prey on their own kind. In Baja there is a typical “Diablo” squid story which tells of a hapless fisherman who is suddenly pulled overboard by a giant Humboldt Squid while night fishing with lights. Within seconds he is torn to pieces before anyone can help him.

But, the really scary squid isn’t our Humboldt Squid at all. Another species exists that lives thousands of feet deep, weighs over a ton and grows to at least 70 feet long. Its eyeballs, the largest of any animal that has ever lived, have been measured at 16 inches in diameter.

Although this gigantic creature has never been scientifically observed while alive in it natural habitat, knowledge of its existence comes from about 100 dead specimens washed ashore, a few caught in trawler nets and a handful of anecdotal encounters by sailors on ships attacked at sea. Sperm whale stomachs also provide evidence as they often contain numbers of the squid’s indigestible grapefruit-sized beaks. It is said that this huge squid is the model for the Scylla of Homer’s Odyssey and Captain Nemo’s squid of Jules Verne’s 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea.   

In Baja the Humboldt Squid has become an important commercial product. Huge fleet of pangas can be seen working with lights at night from the Midriff area south to Loreto. The center of this activity is in Santa Rosalia where several packing houses work to fill the orders of Asian buyers. For us sport anglers, Mexican sport fishing regulations actually prohibit the sport catching of squid, even though many thousands are openly taken each year, and charter fishing operators advertise them as part of the anticipated catch. Tons of squid are also cut up each year as fish bait, with no problems from local field inspectors. Someday, perhaps, someone in Mexico will decide to enforce the regulations. But until then, the delicious, formidable and abundant Humboldt Squid will continue to provide Baja sport anglers with excellent bait and delicious calamari steaks
 

Exvotos-Mexican Folk Art

Exvoto is a Spanish word meaning “votive offering”. Votive offerings are given as an expression of a vow, a pledge or a desired wish. The exvoto, considered by Catholics as a personal thank you note to God, began in Italy in the 15th century. Wealthy individuals commissioned artists to produce painted exvotos. As the concept spread rapidly throughout Europe and the Americas it was not limited to the upper classes.

The first painted exvoto in Mexico dates back to 1592. When many people think of exvotos in Mexico they think of those painted on tin or sheet metal. Modern exvotos are frequently made on paper. It is not unusual to see one that is simply a photocopy of a graduation certificate from school.   In most cases the exvoto is signed and dated, and explains why the giver is giving thanks for what they believe that God did for them. In many cases they tell a very touching personal story which is what makes them so fascinating. They are very public professions of thanks for favors received and are found in nearly all Mexican Catholic churches, particularly on the mainland.

Exvotos are considered by many as Mexican Folk Art. The exvoto is a fascinating reflection of the unique culture of Mexico. In a secular society people may not think of God in terms of having much direct impact on their lives. For Mexicans who create and post exvotos, God is very much a part of their lives, helping them in times of crisis.  

When you are traveling in mainland Mexico you will likely find wonderful examples of exvotos in the churches of towns designated as “World Heritage” sites.